Machine Quilting for Beginners

ISBN-13: 9781590128602

Media Type: Paperback(None)

Publisher: Annie's

Publication Date: 09-01-2017

Pages: 80

Product Dimensions: 8.30(w) x 10.70(h) x 0.20(d)

Carolyn S. Vagts is a wife, mother, grandmother, quilt designer, author, quilt book editor and the editor of Quilter’s World magazine. She also has a successful quilt shop in Lake Orion, Mich. Carolyn has made a name for herself in the quilting world with her award-winning techniques of mixing traditional piecing with fusible art applique. She especially likes to teach beginning quilt classes, wanting every quilter to have a good first experience with quilting. She also lectures and teaches workshops to guilds. Carolyn’s designs have been published regularly in several magazines, including Quilter’s World. She has had many designs published in quilting books and has authored three previous books: Learn to Quilt From Start to Finish, I Can Quilt and Learn to Quilt With Panels. The creative process has been a notable part of her life. She studied drawing, pottery and sculpture in college where she received a liberal arts degree. She finally found her niche in quilting when asked to do some design work. That was over 15 years ago, and she has been designing quilts and working in the quilt industry ever since.

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

Getting Started: The Basics

Preparing the Quilt Top for Quilting

Whether you're sending your quilt off to a longarm quilter or you're going to quilt it yourself, there are a few things that need to be done to prepare the top to ensure a nice finish.

Pressing: When the quilt top is complete, a thorough pressing should be done. Make sure that the seam allowances are pressed and lie flat. Trim loose threads. Remember that good flat seams begin when you're piecing, so make it a practice to press between each step as you piece your project. You can never press too much. You'll be thankful you did when you see the end result.

Backing Fabric: To measure and prepare the backing fabric you should first know if you're going to send it to a longarm quilter or if you intend to quilt it yourself. A longarm quilter usually wants the backing to measure 6–8" larger on all sides than the actual quilt top. You will need to verify this with your longarm quilter making sure you adhere to their specifications. If you are doing the quilting yourself you can reduce the excess to 2–4" larger on all sides than the quilt top. That's a safe amount. It's always nice to go a bit larger when at all possible.

Batting Selection

Batting does make a difference. There are several things to consider when selecting your batting type. How will it be used? Will it be washed a lot? What climate will the quilt be used in? How much quilting are you planning to do on it? How will it drape? Ask the questions and research your choices before you purchase the batting.

Make sure that the batting will meet your needs and expectations. Batting packaging has all the information you need, and if you purchase it without the packaging you can always find the answers on the manufacturer's website.

Loft: Loft is the thickness of the batting. It determines how flat or puffy the quilt will be when finished. The flatter the batting the more modern it will look, while puffier batting will create a vintage puckered look. It's a matter of preference. Batting comes in several lofts. The average approximate loft runs from 1/8" to around 1/2", but check each manufacturer's information since brands may differ.

Shrinkage: Natural fibers will shrink; synthetic fibers such as polyester do not. Check the packaging for more information.

Quilting distance: Make sure to check the batting package for recommended distance between stitching lines. Knowing how far apart to quilt will help you decide on how to quilt your quilt top. Knowing the attributes of your batting will ensure a nice and lasting finish for your quilt.

Prewashing: Most batting manufacturers recommend that you not prewash your batting, but check packaging for specific product recommendations.

Below is some very basic general information about some of the batting types on the market. It is best to check the batting packaging for each specific brand used for more details. Not all products are the same or equal. As you gain experience you will learn your preferences.

Cotton batting is made with natural plant fibers and is favored by many quilters. It drapes nicely, is soft and is usually about 1/8" thick. Cotton works well for most quilting uses.

Polyester batting tends to be thicker but lighter than natural fibers. It's nonbreathable and is typically used for bedding. It is warmer than cotton but is lighter in actual weight. Thickness varies.

Wool batting is made with natural animal fibers. Wool is very warm but lightweight. It drapes nicely and is a bit loftier than most battings. Wool will hold its shape for the long haul.

Batting blends like cotton/polyester or cotton/wool battings are typically used when the benefits of two different battings are desired. For example, cotton/wool is a good choice when the quilter wants all-natural fibers and the added bonus of both a soft texture and a bit more loft.

Always read the packaging for the batting you've chosen for how far apart to stitch, whether to prewash and to find out how much it may shrink.

It's always a good idea to make sample quilt sandwiches, called "batts," of the batting types along with notes about what needle and thread you used to achieve the sample so you can repeat the finished results.

Layering & Basting

If you're going to quilt your own quilt, here are your options and how best to prepare.

Sandwiching or layering is the process of putting together the pieced quilt top, batting and the fabric backing to ready the quilt for the actual quilting process. There are several ways to do it. Depending on the size of the quilt top, it can be done on a tabletop, a counter or the floor.

Place the backing, batting and quilt top in the following order. First, the backing fabric should be placed with the right side of the fabric down and taped or secured in place so that the fabric is wrinkle free and taut. If you are pinning the fabric on a carpeted floor, T-pins work great for this purpose. Next, smooth out the batting on top of the backing. Make sure it is straight and wrinkle free. And last, center and smooth the pieced quilt top right side up over the batting. Once the top is nice and smooth, you're ready to secure it for quilting.

Pin basting is done with safety pins. Curved #1 safety pins are recommended for this process. Once the backing, batting and pieced quilt top are layered and smooth, pinning through all layers about every 6" should hold the layers together and prevent puckers or folds on the back. A smooth, flat surface on both the front and the back of your quilt is the desired result. I recommend that you start pinning your quilt sandwich from the center and work your way to the edges. This way, if there is any slack in any of the layers it will work its way out as you go.

Spray basting is accomplished with purchased basting spray. Spray the adhesive to the batting and then carefully place the quilt top over it, making sure there are no waves or wrinkles. The same is done with the backing fabric. The advantages to using basting spray is there are no pins to watch for and remove as you quilt. The down side is it can sometimes be difficult to apply to a larger quilt. If you choose to use this method, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions before you begin and spray in a well-ventilated area.

Stitch basting may be done either by hand or by machine. If you choose to try this method by machine, use the largest straight stitch available on your machine. This will make it easier to remove the stitches after you're done. If basting by hand, use a long running stitch.

Preparing the Machine

Once you've made the decision to learn to free-motion quilt, gathering the supplies you'll need should be the next step. A sewing machine in good working order with the necessary attributes is priority one. It isn't important to have the most expensive machine, but it is important to make sure the machine you choose has the features needed.

Owner's manual: The best place to check and learn about your machine and its features is the owner's manual. If you don't have one for your machine, go to the brand's website. Many brands have manuals on their sites that can be downloaded for free. You will need to know your model number.

Darning foot or free-motion foot: There are several different types of feet that can be used for quilting. Different brands may have different names for the same type of foot. For the most part, darning foot and free-motion foot are the most common terms. Check your manual to see which foot is recommended for quilting. If you don't have that type of foot with your machine, you can usually purchase one either at your local machine shop or online at one of the many websites for quilting.

Feed dogs: The feed dogs are the part of your sewing machine that advances the fabric evenly as you stitch. When you are free-motion quilting, the feed dogs must be lowered so that you can move the quilt sandwich freely. Check your manual to locate them under the needle plate and to learn how to lower them so that they are not engaged. If you own a machine with feed dogs that can't be lowered, cover them with a thick piece of cardstock and tape it into place.

BSR: This is a Bernina sewing machine feature. It is a stitch regulator (Bernina Stitch Regulator). If you own a Bernina, refer to your manual for instructions on how to attach and use the BSR unit.

Extension table: An extension table can be very helpful when quilting. This is a table that extends the bed area of your machine. It gives you a greater quilting surface. If you have an extension table, this is the time to use it. You'll struggle much less with the weight and bulk of the quilt sandwich if the table is used.

Making Decisions About the Right Products

Threads

For the most part, selecting thread is based on personal preference and the types of thread that work best in your machine. Making sample batts using different needle, batting and thread combinations will help you decide which threads and needles work best together with your machine and will help you make good choices. Keeping the batts for future reference and documenting tensions settings, if necessary, along with the needles, threads and battings used will help you get good, consistent results.

Needles

Selecting needles can be a personal preference. Not all quilters are looking for the same end result or finished look, and not all machines are the same. Test a needle with the thread and batting you intend to use to determine if the results are what you are expecting and if it's the best choice for your quilt. It's always a good idea to test before jumping in and quilting. You'll be much happier with the end result if you make it a habit to test the chosen threads, needles and battings before attempting the quilt. Whichever type of needle you choose to use, always begin each project with a new needle for best results.

Below are listed several needle types commonly used for quilting.

A quilting needle is a great place to start. It's designed to penetrate multiple layers of fabrics without damaging the fibers. It works well with all quilting cottons.

A Microtex sharp needle is very slim and has a sharp point. It will make a smaller stitch hole but will still cross-seam intersections with ease. It's great for use with batiks.

A metallic needle is designed for use with specialty threads. It has a larger eye and a longer groove to prevent shredding and breakage. Use a slower stitch speed for best results.

A top stitch needle is designed with a longer eye and a special groove to allow the quilter to use thicker threads. It also is useful with problem threads. If you are having issues with a certain brand of thread in your sewing machine, try this needle before giving up.

Choose the needle that is best suited to your needs and your machine. Results vary with different machines and threads. It's always a good idea to test your threads and needles before you begin a new quilting project.

Marking Your Quilt

In some cases, you may want to mark your quilt before the actual quilting begins. Creating a grid or guidelines can help with placement and evenness in your quilting. To mark your quilt there are several good products on the market to help you be successful. Below are a few and how to apply them.

Water-soluble markers allow you to place temporary guidelines on your quilt top. Once the quilting is done, you simply wash or spritz water onto the lines and watch them disappear. Always read the manufacturer's instructions before using any product on your quilt. Products vary on usage.

Masking tape and rulers are other good tools to use to mark a quilt top. Using blue painter's masking tape is a great way to establish straight lines to follow and is easily removed. The tape can be reused several times. You can either use the tape to draw on your lines, or you can stitch along it and then move it over for the next line. Rulers can also be used in conjunction with water-soluble markers to mark a quilt top.

A pounce and stencils are good tools for adding plain or elaborate motifs to your quilt. A pounce is a container filled with a chalk substance that may be used with stencils to mark a temporary pattern on your quilt top. The chalk transfers the pattern from the stencil onto the fabric. You can then stitch on the chalk line to create the motif of the stencil. The chalk can be removed by simply shaking the chalk powders out.

All of the above products can aid in your quilting experience so don't be afraid to try some or all of them. After all, the goal is to quilt well, so don't limit yourself.

Ready, Set, Go!

Planning the quilting ... or not. Once you've made the commitment to learn to quilt on your domestic machine, the next step is to decide what to quilt. Many quilters start with the basics and work their way up to more complicated designs. If you learn the basics, the rest will fall into place as you go. This book's exercises are laid out from the most basic of skills to the more advanced. As you progress through the exercises you'll notice that once you learn a certain skill or motif, it will be incorporated in others as you continue. It's all about practice, practice and more practice!

Practice batts: The best way to learn any new skill is to practice, and free-motion quilting is no different. The following exercises are easiest to complete if done with a comfortable and manageable-size batt. All the samples were done on a 12" layered sandwich — two 12" squares of fabric and one 12" square of batting. On the top fabric a 91/2"-square ruler was used to trace a centered square for the practice area. Inside the 91/2" square is where the quilting was done. You should do the same. This will give you enough space to practice each exercise and will allow you to keep the finished batts for future reference. It's a good idea to prepare a few quilt sandwiches before you begin.

Doodling: Now this is a great way to get warmed up before you start! A sketch pad and pencil make the perfect place to play and try out new quilting ideas. Some of the best quilting motifs have been born on a sketch pad while doodling.

Quilting gloves: Another great suggestion is to purchase a pair of quilting gloves. Wearing a pair of gloves while quilting will help you move the quilt smoothly with ease. It will also prevent your hands from tiring too soon. There are several brands on the market to choose from, and all work well.

Self-threading hand needle: This is used to bury your thread tails.

Below is a checklist for getting your machine ready to go.

• Clean the bobbin case and add a filled bobbin.

• Fill several extra bobbins and set them aside.

• Place a new needle in the machine.

• Thread the machine.

• Put your machine's feed dogs down.

• Attach the free-motion quilting foot or the foot suggested by your machine's manufacturer.

• If your machine requires settings for free-motion quilting, then set them now.

• Lift the foot and place the quilt sandwich underneath it.

• Draw bobbin thread to the top and pull to the back out of the way leaving 4–5" tails to be buried later.

• Needle down and begin!

Quilt your desired pattern, but don't cut the threads when you are finished. Pull the

bottom bobbin thread to the top and leave a 4–5" tail for tying off and burying.

To bury the threads, first tie the two threads together in a knot. Then thread the two ends through a self-threading needle (thread both the top and bottom thread through it), bring the needle down through the top layer of fabric and into the batting and then up and out of the top layer of fabric again, about 1/2" away from where the needle first entered the batting. Give the threads a bit of a tug and the knot will be pulled under the fabric. Trim the thread ends so that they will end under the layer of fabric. Repeat the same process for the two beginning threads at the start. By doing this, you will always have a perfect start and finish to your quilting, and you won't have to worry about the quilting coming undone. A nice start and finish to your loose threads will extend the life of your quilt and eliminate repairs down the road.

CHAPTER 2

Free-Motion Quilting Exercises

These exercises are laid out in order of difficulty. If you start with the first exercise and work your way through them in the order given you will discover that each skill you learn will bring you closer to your goal. We will start with the simplest yet most important, and work our way through to the most difficult. The beauty of working in order is that with each exercise you conquer you're making the next one that much easier. Each skill learned can be applied to another motif. As you progress you'll discover that it will become much easier to achieve your desired results. It only takes practice and perseverance.

Straight-line stitch: The straight line stitch is one of the most important to learn. It's the stitch that will make you be the most critical of yourself and your abilities as a quilter. The feed dogs of your machine will not be pulling the fabric through to make your stitches straight and even. For this exercise, travel first from left to right, just as you would when you read or write, and then go in the opposite direction, so you make a back and forth motion across the fabric square. The point of this lesson is to teach speed control and to regulate your stitch length, learning in the process that you can stitch in any direction. Paying attention to your speed will determine your stitch length. Your goal is to find the speed that you are comfortable with and one that allows you control. Practice until you feel comfortable with your efforts.

(Continues…)

---

Excerpted from "Machine Quilting for Beginners"
by .
Copyright © 2017 Annie's.
Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

---

<

Table of Contents

Pattern Services and Revisions,
About the Author,
Getting Started: The Basics,
Free-Motion Quilting Exercises,
Using Guidelines as an Aid for Free-Motion Quilting Is Not Cheating!,
Templates,
Special Thanks,