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Sewing for Plus Sizes: Creating Clothes that Fit and Flatter

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Everyone looks great in clothes that fit, no matter what your size. If ready-to-wear doesn't do it for you, let Barbara Deckert teach you how to sew for your plus-size body with Sewing for Plus Sizes. She will guide you through the process of selecting designs, fabrics, and colors that flatter plus- and super-size figures. In addition, you'll get great techniques for sizing up any pattern (even those fancy designer ones!), special concerns for plus-size sewers, and lots of hints and advice make this the most useful sewing book you'll ever own.

ISBN-13: 9781561585519

Media Type: Paperback

Publisher: Taunton Press - Incorporated

Publication Date: 03-15-2002

Pages: 160

Product Dimensions: 8.50(w) x 11.00(h) x 0.33(d)

Deckert, who designs and makes plus-size fashions, is a frequent contributor to Sew News, Threads, BBW, Radiance, and PACC News. She is a charter member of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers and has over 30 years of sewing experience.

Table of Contents

Introduction vi
Chapter 1 Sewing is the solution 2
You are what you wear 4
Why you can't find clothes that fit 5
Good fit makes you feel great! 7
Sewing: The smart and satisfying solution 8
Fashion figures for plus sizes 9
Chapter 2 Let's give them something to look at! 10
What to expect when you sew your own clothes 12
The components of design 13
Analyzing proportion and line in pattern designs 18
About your underwear 24
Listen to your compliments 25
Chapter 3 Tools for plus-sized sewing 26
Furniture 28
Sewing machines 29
Measuring and drafting tools 30
Cutting tools 32
Marking tools 33
Pressing tools 34
Hand tools 35
Dress forms for plus sizes 36
Chapter 4 Choosing fabric for plus-sized designs 40
Fibers 42
Making your fabric choice 48
Underlinings, linings, and interfacings for plus-sized designs 49
The quest for quality 51
Chapter 5 Adjusting the pattern to fit your body size 52
Standardized sizing is a misnomer 54
Your body isn't ideal, it's real: sizing up 56
Understanding ease 72
A note on pants 75
Safety first 77
Chapter 6 Adjusting the pattern to fit your figure variations 78
Bust adjustments 80
Rounded upper back 87
Large upper arms 87
Large buttocks 88
Large or hanging belly 88
Large neck 88
Large legs 89
Swayback 89
Hyperextended calves 89
Chapter 7 Design modifications for plus sizes 90
Waistbands 90
Adding pleats to pants 102
Reinforced seams 105
Shoulder pads 106
Closure placement 111
Button placement 113
The magic of gussets 113
Slits and vents 117
Adapting basic patterns to make other garments 119
Chapter 8 A basted fitting: the only way to get it right! 122
Basting the garment for a fitting 124
Fitting from the waist up 126
Fitting from the waist down 134
After the fitting 139
Appendix A Fashion figures for plus-sized designs 140
Appendix B How to find, select, and work with a custom clothier 142
Further reading 147
Resources 149
Index 153