Scent: A Natural History of Fragrance

A fascinating exploration of the natural history of scent and human perceptions of fragrance from the viewpoint of plant and pollinator

"An evocative journey that awakens one's curiosity to an oft-forgotten sense."--Dana Dunham, Scientific American

Plants have long harnessed the chemical characteristics of aromatic compounds to shape the world around them. Frankincense resin from the genus Boswellia seals injured tissues and protects trees from invading pathogens. Jasmine produces a molecule called linalool that attracts pollinating moths with its flowery scent. Tobacco uses a similarly sweet-smelling compound called benzyl acetone to attract pollinators. Only recently in the evolutionary history of plants, however, have humans learned to co-opt their fragrances to seduce, heal, protect, and alter moods themselves.

In this wide-ranging and accessible new book, biologist-turned-perfumer Elise Vernon Pearlstine turns our human-centered perception of fragrance on its head and investigates plants' evolutionary reasons for creating aromatic molecules. Delving into themes of spirituality, wealth, power, addiction, royalty, fantasy, and more, Pearlstine uncovers the natural history of aromatic substances and their intersection with human culture and civilization.

ISBN-13: 9780300246964

Media Type: Hardcover

Publisher: Yale University Press

Publication Date: 05-24-2022

Pages: 272

Product Dimensions: 5.60(w) x 8.60(h) x 1.20(d)

After a seventeen-year career in wildlife biology, Elise Vernon Pearlstine found a second life as a natural perfumer, consultant, and educator. She conducts classes for corporate and private events, instructing students on the biology, artistry, and history of perfume ingredients. Dr. Pearlstine lives on Amelia Island in northern Florida.

Table of Contents

Preface ix

Acknowledgments xv

Introduction 1

Incense, Wood, and Resin 5

1 The Torchwoods: Frankincense, Myrrh, and Copal 9

2 Fragrant Woods: Agarwood and Sandalwood 31

Spices 51

3 Spices of the Western Ghats 59

4 The Spice Islands 71

5 Saffron, Vanilla, and Chocolate 79

Scented Gardens and Aromatic Herbs 93

6 Gardens 101

7 Fragrant Flowers and Aromatic Herbs 115

8 Roses 141

Perfumery from Mandarin to Musk 153

9 Humble Beginnings: Mint and Turpentine 159

10 Perfume Notes 175

Fragrance and Fashion 203

11 Impossible Flowers and Building a Perfume 207

12 Scented Worlds: Industry and Fashion 215

Glossary 227

Notes 233

Index 247

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