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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance - Paperback | Diverse Reads

Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

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Increase your strength, power, skill, and focus to maximize your climbing performance. Praise for Training for Climbing “Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available.” —Rock and Ice magazine Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition of the international best-selling Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information. A few of the new topics explored include: • Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance. • Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output and stamina. • Daily Undulating Periodization as an effective method of on-season programming. • “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training! • Stabilizer training to improve arm power and reduce risk of shoulder injury. Also included are expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hörst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 300-plus pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type! Eric Hörst is an internationally renowned author and a climber of forty years. As a researcher and coach, Hörst has written hundreds of articles and coached thousands of climbers from around the world. He owns the popular website Training4Climbing.com.

ISBN-13: 9781493017614

Media Type: Paperback(3rd Edition)

Publisher: Falcon Guides

Publication Date: 07-15-2016

Pages: 352

Product Dimensions: 7.40(w) x 9.00(h) x 0.80(d)

Series: How To Climb Series

Eric Horst has been climbing for thirty years. He is a performance coach who has helped thousands of climbers improve their performance through his books, magazine articles, seminars, and Web sites. He is the author of Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland; Training for Climbing 2st ed; How to Climb 5.12; Learning to Climb Indoors; and Conditioning for Climbers.

Table of Contents

Foreword Phil Watts x

Acknowledgments xi

Introduction xii

Chapter 1 An Overview of Training for Climbing 1

Chapter 2 Self-Assessment and Goal Setting 19

Chapter 3 Mental Training 31

Chapter 4 Training Technique and Skill 57

Chapter 5 The Physiology of Climbing 89

Chapter 6 Mobility, Stability, Antagonist Training 117

Chapter 7 Core, Legs, and Aerobic Training 147

Chapter 8 Finger Training for Strength and Endurance 165

Chapter 9 Pull-Muscle and Power Training 199

Chapter 10 Designing Your Training Program 219

Chapter 11 Performance Nutrition 247

Chapter 12 Accelerating Recovery 263

Chapter 13 Injury Treatment and Prevention 279

Afterword 305

Appendix A Muscular Anatomy 306

Appendix B Training Charts 308

Appendix C Self-Assessment Test Comments and Training Tips 311

Glossary 315

Suggested Reading 321

References 322

Index 327

About the Author 336