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Chími Nu'am: Native California Foodways for the Contemporary Kitchen

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More than seventy delectable recipes that bring California’s Indigenous cuisines into kitchens today.

Finalist for the 2023 Glenn Goldman Award for Cooking, Chosen by the California Booksellers Alliance

In this sumptuous cookbook, Sara Calvosa Olson (Karuk) reimagines some of the oldest foods in California for home cooks today. Meaning “Let’s eat!” in the Karuk language, Chími Nu’am shares the author’s delicious and inventive takes on Native food styles from across California. Over seventy seasonal recipes centered on a rich array of Indigenous ingredients follow the year from Fall (elk chili beans, acorn crepes) to Winter (wild boar pozole, huckleberry hand pies) to Spring (wildflower spring rolls, peppernut mole chicken) to Summer (blackberry braised smoked salmon, acorn milk freezer pops). Special sections offer guidance on acorn preparation, traditional uses of proteins, and mindful ingredient sourcing. Calvosa Olson has spent many years connecting her family’s foodways with a growing community, and  these recipes, techniques, and insights invite everyone to Calvosa Olson’s table. Designed as an accessible entry for people beginning their journey toward a decolonized diet, Chími Nu’am welcomes readers in with Calvosa Olson’s politically attuned and irresistibly funny writing. With more than 100 photographs, this cookbook is a culinary gift that will add warmth and mouthwatering aromas to any kitchen.

ISBN-13: 9781597146159

Media Type: Hardcover

Publisher: Heyday

Publication Date: 09-05-2023

Pages: 288

Product Dimensions: 7.70(w) x 10.10(h) x 1.00(d)

Sara Calvosa Olson (Karuk) is a food writer and editor living in the Bay Area with her husband and two teenage sons. Her work dwells at the intersection of storytelling, Indigenous food systems, security, sovereignty, reconnection, and recipe development. Her writing has appeared in News from Native California and Edible Shasta-Butte. Visit her website at akihsara.com, and follow her on Instagram at @thefrybreadriot. She lives in Mill Valley, California, which is the unceded ancestral homeland of the Coast Miwok.

Read an Excerpt

EXCERPT FROM THE INTRODUCTION: "Ayukîi"

This book was written from my home on Huimen Coast Miwok lands. I’m profoundly grateful for the advanced and skillful stewardship of the Miwok people—their strong reciprocal relationship with the land is why this area is so beautiful and abundant. Because of their energy, immense amount of scientific knowledge, compassion, and commitment, I know the land still retains a deep love for people. Yôotva, I am glad to have had the opportunity to walk among your original ancestors.

Most people tend to bisect the state of California into two distinct cultural factions: Northern California and Southern California. But this land of rivers, deserts, mountains, valleys, prairies, wetlands, lakes, and more than 800 miles of Pacific Ocean coastline is home to a vast number of different tribes with unique and separate identities and cultural lifeways, in addition to waves of diasporic cultural influences.

Even if many tribes are still unrecognized by the U.S. government, their impact on the abundance of this land is evident in every nook and valley of this state. Many of our foodways intersect and seamlessly blend with one another throughout the state while still maintaining dynamic and unique cultural differences. If our foodways are bookended by acorns, a food eaten by people in both the north and the south, then there is an entire library of food combinations in between. This book is meant to be inclusive of but not representative of that library. I hope people from all parts of California (and beyond) will be able to connect to some portion of this book. I have deliberately held back traditional and ceremonial recipes in an effort to draw a line between how we prepare our ancestral foods versus the foods Native people make in their modern kitchens using ancestral ingredients. These recipes take a new look at some of the oldest foods in California, in an effort to connect to a greater holistic picture that includes everybody.

[...]

I wrote this book because I want to be in service of my people, of all tribal peoples and elders and my great-great-great-grandchildren. Though this book is about starting slow, I want to impress upon everybody the urgency with which we must act to keep our ecosystems healthy and our air clean and eliminate our dependence upon fossil fuels and other extractive industries. I want us all to wake up wondering how we can be of service to our communities every day; in small ways and in big ways, being in service to one another and this planet is the highest calling.

This book is curated for people who want to recalibrate their lifeways to the natural rhythms and cycles of the plant and animal relatives we were put on Earth to care for. I believe that we all need to work together to address the inequity in our food systems, community food apartheid, water protection, and climate change. There is a story in Ararapíkva by Julian Lang that I’ve found to be profoundly prescient. It is about the Old People and the way they saw the coming of the corruption of our food systems when the men “with the little wide hats” arrived.

Today when I see how many diet-related diseases are affecting our communities, and the corruption and overextraction of resources that U.S. agriculture has inflicted on our lands, I feel it is more important than ever that we wrest control of our food systems back from these settler-colonial systems. Food is inherently political; we cannot separate our foodways from our past, present, or future, and this book is gently infused with historical context, activism, and calls to action to work toward securing a more equitable and sustainable future for all of us.

This work is also an act of resilience. Adaptability is one of our most powerful attributes as Native people. I have found that non-Indigenous people often succumb to a “Chicken Little’’ perspective: the sky is falling, climate change has won, we just can’t fight fossil fuel corporations and the government entities they own. “They’re just too powerful, so we might as well give up and enjoy our lives in as much comfort as we can while stockpiling resources for ourselves because the Earth is going to right itself; humans are a virus and we ruined everything, oh well”—I hear it all the time.

Indigenous people on the other hand, even after enduring several waves of genocide and colonization, disease, land theft, pollution, and resource extraction, are found on every front line facing into the illest of winds, still fighting with each breath, fighting for a future that is balanced and harmonized with the world. We will never stop fighting. We will not abdicate our role as stewards and protectors. We know the fight is hard, but we have been through the hardest things and we are still here. We will not succumb to the notion that the fight is over, and some of us have been fighting for hundreds of years, mid-apocalypse. Don’t give up. Get on your pony and get in here.

Many of us are already actively decolonizing our diets in our own ways, each at our own pace to varying degrees of success—often running into problems with ingredient accessibility, as most of us are no longer oriented to gathering or do not live in an area where traditional foods are accessible. But every season is a new opportunity to share knowledge and to offer a light in the dark for those who are in various stages of connection or reconnection with their traditional ways; it is a chance to introduce one another to our plant relatives, to begin forming or to keep nurturing a relationship with our cultural biomes, and to support one another in our journeys.

I hope you will begin to see the interconnectedness of storytelling, art, ethnobotany, climate change, agricultural practices, and how they all come together to provide context for our traditional foodways. In collecting, creating, and compiling recipes using some of the oldest foods in California, I hope it is a first step in restoring the rhythms of sustainability that our ancestors have refined since time immemorial.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Ayukîi 

About Me 

How to Use This Book 

Equipment and Specialty Foods 

Proteins 

Fall

Pimnaníhkaanva 

Acorn Guide 

Rustic Acorn Bread 

Blackberry Smoked Salmon Smörgåstårta 

Acorn Pumpkin Muffins 

Acorn Manzanita Waffles

Acorn Miso 

Acorn Miso Soup with Tanoak Mushrooms 

Acorn Miso Creamed Kale 

Three Sisters Fall Salad 

Squash Frybread 

Elk Chili Beans 

Stuffed Mini Pumpkins with Ground Venison Sausage and Currants 

Apple Cider Brined Turkey with Apple Brandy Acorn Gravy 

Acorn Crepes

Turkey and Wild Mushroom Crepes 

Cajeta Apple Pie Crepes 

Maple Cheesecake with Pine Nut and Acorn Crust 

NDN Whoopie Pies

Winter

Íshyaav 

The Acorn Maidens 

Winter Preserving 

Mussels and Mushrooms on Acorn Bread 

Winter Squash with Bay Leaves 

Winter Quail Stock

Quail and Acorn Dumpling Stew 

Elk Cottage Pie 

Rabbit and Dungeness Paella 

Red Chile Rabbit Tamales

White Tepary Bean Soup with Ham Hock and Collards 

Cataplana

Wild Boar Pozole 

Deer Meat Stew and Grits 

Coffee and Juniper Brined Venison 

Acorn Hand Pies 

Basic Acorn Pie Crust 

Miso Smoked Salmon Chowder Hand Pies 

Huckleberry Hand Pies 

Hot Peppernut Cocoa with Mallow Root Marshmallows 

California Galette 

Buttermilk Chocolate Acorn Quick Bread 

Spring

Xátikrupma 

Spring Gathering Guide 

Corine Pearce 

Infusions 

Decoctions 

Compresses 

Poultices 

How to Dehydrate Nettles or Lamb’s Quarters 

Morel Preparation 

How to Dehydrate Mushrooms and Morels 

Tree Tip Syrups, Sugars, and Oils 

Niçoise Salad with Pickled Sea Beans and Quail Eggs 

NDN Lettuce and Popped Amaranth Salad with Lemon Pine Nut Vinaigrette 

Spring Mushroom Stock 

Cream of Woodland Mushroom Soup 

Acorn Miso Balls and Dashi with Pacific Seaweed and Dried Mushrooms 

Acorn Crackers with Edible Flowers and Wild Onion Dip and Acorn Hummus 

Wildflower Spring Rolls

Peppernut Mole Chicken with Nettle Tortillas and Nettle Poblano Rice 

Duck Egg Chilaquiles with Nettle Tortilla Chips 

Wild Rice Gatherer’s Bowl 

Stinging Nettle Risotto with Cumin Coriander Lamb Chops and Acorn Squash with Burrata, Hazelnuts, and Barberries 

Meadow Quiche 

Acorn Focaccia with Wild Edibles 

Pea Pancakes with Lemon Cream, Smoked Salmon, and Quail Eggs 

Big Leaf Maple Blossom Fritters with Spruce Tip Syrup 

Summer

Pimnáanih 

Summer Spaghetti Sauce 

Wild Meatballs 

Summer Corn Stock 

Blackberry Smoothie Bowl with Hazelnut Granola 

Three Sisters Summer Salad 

Quail “Chicken Salad” with Cherry Plums and Black Walnuts 

Watermelon Salad with Yerba Buena 

Greek Salad with Smoked Trout 

Summer Grape Leaf Wraps 

Huckleberry Gazpacho with Smoked Salmon 

Pine Pollen Cacio e Pepe 

Blackberry Brined Smoked Salmon 

Blackberry Braised Venison Tacos 

Elk Medallions with Acorn Miso Rub 

Acorn Milk Freezer Pops 

Acorn Milk and Chia Pops with Salmonberry Chamoy 

Rose-Ade and Elderflower Freezer Pops 

Blackberry “Chiascake” Freezer Pops 

Zucchini Acorn Bread with Black Walnuts and Chocolate Chips 

Blackberry Curd and Maple Angel Food Cake 

Blackberry Pie with Acorn Crust 

Acknowledgments

Index 

About the Author